Can you put floor joists on a steel I-beam or do you need a plate on top of the beam 1st?
Q. Hello, I am building a house that is 26' x 40' I would like to have a steel beam spanning the 40' length at the center of the 26' wall over the basement. Right now I have a choice if I want the beam flush with the perimeter sill plate, or lowered 1-1/2" and have a sill plate on top of the beam. There will be a support column at 15'-10" supporting the beam. The ends of the beam will be in pockets in a poured concrete wall. The house will be a stick framed with no load bearing interior walls. The basement will be finished with drywall on the ceilings and the above floor will be 3/4" hardwood. The joists will be blocked and toe-nailed to the foundation wall sill plate. I was wondering if you can tell me: - What are the advantages and… [cont.]
Asked by dannywild1 - Sun Nov 18 18:57:38 2007 - - 7 Answers - 0 Comments
A. The most secure way to attach the sill to the beam is to drill through the plate and the beam. Run lag bolts through them and wrench it tight. Will hold better than any powder actuated gun.
Answered by James M - Sun Nov 18 20:10:44 2007
Q. Hello, I am building a house that is 26' x 40' I would like to have a steel beam spanning the 40' length at the center of the 26' wall over the basement. Right now I have a choice if I want the beam flush with the perimeter sill plate, or lowered 1-1/2" and have a sill plate on top of the beam. There will be a support column at 15'-10" supporting the beam. The ends of the beam will be in pockets in a poured concrete wall. The house will be a stick framed with no load bearing interior walls. The basement will be finished with drywall on the ceilings and the above floor will be 3/4" hardwood. The joists will be blocked and toe-nailed to the foundation wall sill plate. I was wondering if you can tell me: - What are the advantages and… [cont.]
Asked by dannywild1 - Sun Nov 18 18:57:38 2007 - - 7 Answers - 0 Comments
A. The most secure way to attach the sill to the beam is to drill through the plate and the beam. Run lag bolts through them and wrench it tight. Will hold better than any powder actuated gun.
Answered by James M - Sun Nov 18 20:10:44 2007
Anyone out there know how to install a W8x48 steel beam under floor joists? Our contractor needs help!?
Q. The beam can't be supported by wooden 2x10's, right? Thanks to those who provided information. The W8x48 steel beam is going in an existing structure to support a second floor where a load bearing wall was removed. I think this is new territory for our contractor. We do have stamped plans from a structural engineer, I think our contractor was trying to figure out an alternate way to install the beam. I think he suggested using wooden beams to support the steel beam so that he does not have to cut into a joist in the basement, but we really want him to stick to the structural engineer's plans - I think he is feeling a little unsure. If anyone with experience on something likes this lives in the Philadelphia area, I would gladly pay you to… [cont.]
Asked by Chris - Fri Jun 5 23:32:12 2009 - - 9 Answers - 0 Comments
A. c first you need a foundation to set this on.i recommend pouring a concrete footer,can be done with sacrete.from there you would build piers of concrete blocks to support w8 x 48.you can shim small gaps between beam and floor joists with wood wedges.furthermore,all of you who can't answer this question don't realize there are many different types of contractors.some times we are asked to do things outside our proffesion to help homeowners save a little money since we are already on the job.
Answered by Cliff C - Sat Jun 6 00:47:20 2009
Q. The beam can't be supported by wooden 2x10's, right? Thanks to those who provided information. The W8x48 steel beam is going in an existing structure to support a second floor where a load bearing wall was removed. I think this is new territory for our contractor. We do have stamped plans from a structural engineer, I think our contractor was trying to figure out an alternate way to install the beam. I think he suggested using wooden beams to support the steel beam so that he does not have to cut into a joist in the basement, but we really want him to stick to the structural engineer's plans - I think he is feeling a little unsure. If anyone with experience on something likes this lives in the Philadelphia area, I would gladly pay you to… [cont.]
Asked by Chris - Fri Jun 5 23:32:12 2009 - - 9 Answers - 0 Comments
A. c first you need a foundation to set this on.i recommend pouring a concrete footer,can be done with sacrete.from there you would build piers of concrete blocks to support w8 x 48.you can shim small gaps between beam and floor joists with wood wedges.furthermore,all of you who can't answer this question don't realize there are many different types of contractors.some times we are asked to do things outside our proffesion to help homeowners save a little money since we are already on the job.
Answered by Cliff C - Sat Jun 6 00:47:20 2009
Steel Joists to replace wooden joists in older construction?
Q. The ceilings on the first floor of my house are about 7' 4". Is it possible to replace the wood joists that support the second floor with low-profile steel joists? I have seen some box-frame steel joists that are 100mm deep (4 inches). I think that this could increase the ceiling height by as much as 6". Am I crazy?
Asked by Judith L - Mon Mar 26 17:35:00 2007 - - 1 Answers - 0 Comments
A. the expense and major work required to replace existing beams would make project questionable to achieve 6" of ceiling space if you feel you need to do this hire a contractor this is not a do it yourself project. supports have to be installed to hold up above floor to remove exist. beams , walls will have to be repaired where beams removed ,make sure steel beams are of strong enough gauge They could be weaker than existing if gauge too light also check local building codes /ordinances/permits
Answered by Richard E - Tue Mar 27 09:48:02 2007
Q. The ceilings on the first floor of my house are about 7' 4". Is it possible to replace the wood joists that support the second floor with low-profile steel joists? I have seen some box-frame steel joists that are 100mm deep (4 inches). I think that this could increase the ceiling height by as much as 6". Am I crazy?
Asked by Judith L - Mon Mar 26 17:35:00 2007 - - 1 Answers - 0 Comments
A. the expense and major work required to replace existing beams would make project questionable to achieve 6" of ceiling space if you feel you need to do this hire a contractor this is not a do it yourself project. supports have to be installed to hold up above floor to remove exist. beams , walls will have to be repaired where beams removed ,make sure steel beams are of strong enough gauge They could be weaker than existing if gauge too light also check local building codes /ordinances/permits
Answered by Richard E - Tue Mar 27 09:48:02 2007
What lb/ft W8 beam would I need to span 17' supporting 12' floor joists in the basement of a 1 story house?
Q. The floor joists are 2x8's spaced 16" on centre. Also, what size steel column would be needed? Thank You
Asked by Jim S - Sat Aug 30 07:31:57 2008 - - 3 Answers - 0 Comments
Q. The floor joists are 2x8's spaced 16" on centre. Also, what size steel column would be needed? Thank You
Asked by Jim S - Sat Aug 30 07:31:57 2008 - - 3 Answers - 0 Comments
Proper steel beam size to stiffen kitchen floor?
Q. I have a kitchen floor that is way too bouncy. As a result of this several tiles are getting cracks. Before I got the stone floor installed I asked the installer to reinforce the floor with plywood. The subfloor is the builder's OSB with a layer of glued and screwed 5/8" plywood plus 5/8" durock cement board + 1/2" stone tile. After all that you would think that the floor would be stiff but no. I looked all over the web and it seems that the best solution is to install a beam underneath, perpendicular to the joists. The floor joists are '2x12' engineered I-beams (OSB like), placed 16" on center and spanning 18'. I need to keep maximum headroom on the room below the kitchen thus I was thinking if it is possible to install one or multiple… [cont.]
Asked by profneuf - Sun Mar 9 22:13:51 2008 - - 3 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Well putting a beam underneath is the absolute solution to accomplishing this and might be needed. But to answer your question, since you are looking just to stiffen the floor, you can do just about anything you want. The maximum to look at is a 5.5x12 glulam beam. That beam could hold up one end of your entire floor with only a post at each end of the beam. To keep at 6" you need one post to make the maximum beam under 6". A 5.5"x6" glulam beam with a 8' span to the middle post would hold up one end of the floor. You probably want something less than the above for the middle. Another thing you can do to stiffen a floor is install more solid blocking rows. With I-Beams that means inserting a webstiffener(usually a 1 inch OSB panel) to… [cont.]
Answered by chattterus - Mon Mar 10 20:53:53 2008
Q. I have a kitchen floor that is way too bouncy. As a result of this several tiles are getting cracks. Before I got the stone floor installed I asked the installer to reinforce the floor with plywood. The subfloor is the builder's OSB with a layer of glued and screwed 5/8" plywood plus 5/8" durock cement board + 1/2" stone tile. After all that you would think that the floor would be stiff but no. I looked all over the web and it seems that the best solution is to install a beam underneath, perpendicular to the joists. The floor joists are '2x12' engineered I-beams (OSB like), placed 16" on center and spanning 18'. I need to keep maximum headroom on the room below the kitchen thus I was thinking if it is possible to install one or multiple… [cont.]
Asked by profneuf - Sun Mar 9 22:13:51 2008 - - 3 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Well putting a beam underneath is the absolute solution to accomplishing this and might be needed. But to answer your question, since you are looking just to stiffen the floor, you can do just about anything you want. The maximum to look at is a 5.5x12 glulam beam. That beam could hold up one end of your entire floor with only a post at each end of the beam. To keep at 6" you need one post to make the maximum beam under 6". A 5.5"x6" glulam beam with a 8' span to the middle post would hold up one end of the floor. You probably want something less than the above for the middle. Another thing you can do to stiffen a floor is install more solid blocking rows. With I-Beams that means inserting a webstiffener(usually a 1 inch OSB panel) to… [cont.]
Answered by chattterus - Mon Mar 10 20:53:53 2008
How should I hang a hammock from steel joists?
Q. Hi! I'm trying to hang a hammock on my balcony. There is an overhang above the balcony which I'd like to hang the hammock from. I started a small hole in the outdoor drywall material hoping to find a wood stud. Instead I found a metal floor joist. Would anyone be so kind as to tell me how I should secure the hammock? My research into the types of joists suggests that some might have holes to accommodate plumbing and wiring. Should I try to find one and run a rope through it? Or do I use a self tapping screw and treat the metal stud the same way I would a wood stud? Any recommendations? Thank you! Myc The overhang is actually the floor of part of the bedroom upstairs. Does that make a difference in the type of joists? Otherwise,… [cont.]
Asked by mycrosquish - Sat Aug 9 00:18:22 2008 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. The metal framework most likely will not hold a hammock. Most canopy framing is done with 20 gauge studs. These are strong enough to hang the Densglas (drywall), but will definitely not support a hammock. Can you anchor it to the walls? If not, you may be best off using a freestanding hammock. Hope this helps. EDIT: If it's part of the floor, you are probably looking at 16 gauge. They are much stronger, and the depth (width) will give strength approximately equal to wood. However, I would still hesitate to hang a hammock from it. If you do, you will want to be close to the wall to reduce deflection. That of course means there won't be much room for a hammock. If you do decide to try, use a 1/4"-20 eye bolt, which you will need… [cont.]
Answered by woodtick314 - Sat Aug 9 01:03:26 2008
Q. Hi! I'm trying to hang a hammock on my balcony. There is an overhang above the balcony which I'd like to hang the hammock from. I started a small hole in the outdoor drywall material hoping to find a wood stud. Instead I found a metal floor joist. Would anyone be so kind as to tell me how I should secure the hammock? My research into the types of joists suggests that some might have holes to accommodate plumbing and wiring. Should I try to find one and run a rope through it? Or do I use a self tapping screw and treat the metal stud the same way I would a wood stud? Any recommendations? Thank you! Myc The overhang is actually the floor of part of the bedroom upstairs. Does that make a difference in the type of joists? Otherwise,… [cont.]
Asked by mycrosquish - Sat Aug 9 00:18:22 2008 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. The metal framework most likely will not hold a hammock. Most canopy framing is done with 20 gauge studs. These are strong enough to hang the Densglas (drywall), but will definitely not support a hammock. Can you anchor it to the walls? If not, you may be best off using a freestanding hammock. Hope this helps. EDIT: If it's part of the floor, you are probably looking at 16 gauge. They are much stronger, and the depth (width) will give strength approximately equal to wood. However, I would still hesitate to hang a hammock from it. If you do, you will want to be close to the wall to reduce deflection. That of course means there won't be much room for a hammock. If you do decide to try, use a 1/4"-20 eye bolt, which you will need… [cont.]
Answered by woodtick314 - Sat Aug 9 01:03:26 2008
more true or false carpentry questions?
Q. 1) When nailing panels to floors or walls, the same nail spacing is used along all panel edges and intermediate joists or studs. 2) Stub joists are used where ceilings are furred down. 3) Span tables are available for determining the required size of wood floor joists, wood I-joists, and cold-formed steel floor joists. 4) A cold-formed steel floor joist with the designation 800S162-54 is a C-shaped 54 mil. steel member, with 8 inch web depth and 1 and 5/8 inch flange. 5)The outer ends of metal floor joists are attached by metal angles (bearing stiffeners) to rim track. 6) Holes are drilled in the rim track of a floor unit to accommodate foundation anchor bolts. 7) Unlike wood framing, light-gauge steel construction requires the use… [cont.]
Asked by mtzshorty3 - Wed Mar 5 19:38:23 2008 - - 1 Answers - 0 Comments
A. If you don't know the answers, I ain't going to tell you. Its a family trade secret.
Answered by Romeo - Wed Mar 5 21:23:18 2008
Q. 1) When nailing panels to floors or walls, the same nail spacing is used along all panel edges and intermediate joists or studs. 2) Stub joists are used where ceilings are furred down. 3) Span tables are available for determining the required size of wood floor joists, wood I-joists, and cold-formed steel floor joists. 4) A cold-formed steel floor joist with the designation 800S162-54 is a C-shaped 54 mil. steel member, with 8 inch web depth and 1 and 5/8 inch flange. 5)The outer ends of metal floor joists are attached by metal angles (bearing stiffeners) to rim track. 6) Holes are drilled in the rim track of a floor unit to accommodate foundation anchor bolts. 7) Unlike wood framing, light-gauge steel construction requires the use… [cont.]
Asked by mtzshorty3 - Wed Mar 5 19:38:23 2008 - - 1 Answers - 0 Comments
A. If you don't know the answers, I ain't going to tell you. Its a family trade secret.
Answered by Romeo - Wed Mar 5 21:23:18 2008
Soil pipe and floor joists.?
Q. I have to run a soil pipe against the floor joists. Is it possible to run a soil pipe tru floor joists of 10"x2" thickness by reinforcing the remaining jiost with steel. . If so how is this safely done. I need to get tru 3 floor joists.
Asked by Nobigdeal - Thu May 22 03:51:48 2008 - - 6 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Depending on where your supporting beams are, you can indeed cut the floor joists and 'band' them to other floor joists. We do that when installing new floor furnaces. If you can just notch the floor joists you would be better off. You can band the notch with a heavy steel strap. Our code allow up to a third of a joist can be notched. In your case, that would be 3 1/2 inches. It's ideal to notch the top part, but it is allowed by most codes to notch the bottom and support it with heavy strap that is well screwed or nailed into the joist. The best thing to do is drill the joists, but most of the time you cannot easily feed the pipe through. I suggest you draw out your floor joist design on paper and take it to a city inspector to find… [cont.]
Answered by rangedog - Thu May 22 07:33:08 2008
Q. I have to run a soil pipe against the floor joists. Is it possible to run a soil pipe tru floor joists of 10"x2" thickness by reinforcing the remaining jiost with steel. . If so how is this safely done. I need to get tru 3 floor joists.
Asked by Nobigdeal - Thu May 22 03:51:48 2008 - - 6 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Depending on where your supporting beams are, you can indeed cut the floor joists and 'band' them to other floor joists. We do that when installing new floor furnaces. If you can just notch the floor joists you would be better off. You can band the notch with a heavy steel strap. Our code allow up to a third of a joist can be notched. In your case, that would be 3 1/2 inches. It's ideal to notch the top part, but it is allowed by most codes to notch the bottom and support it with heavy strap that is well screwed or nailed into the joist. The best thing to do is drill the joists, but most of the time you cannot easily feed the pipe through. I suggest you draw out your floor joist design on paper and take it to a city inspector to find… [cont.]
Answered by rangedog - Thu May 22 07:33:08 2008
I am in the process of finishing my basement and am trying to gain some open space.?
Q. Presently I have a 8"X30' steel I-beam running across the length of house, it is being supported by two steel pillars. One is approx. 10' from my outside wall the second is 10' from the first. At the second pillar the 30' beam is intersected by a second 8"x 20' steel I-beam running at 90 degrees to the opposite wall. These beams are supporting the prefab floor joists or silent floor system and 2 storeys of my home. My question is can I remove the second pillar to gain some open space and move it back or just leave it out entirely? I am located in Ontario Canada.
Asked by mugs - Mon Feb 19 19:27:05 2007 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Not a chance!! The beam size is dictated by the load and the distance between the supports. If you remove either support the beam will be overloaded. The second support also carries the second beam. The steel supports are all that hold the floors up and there may be a load bearing wall from the roof and second floor resting on the 30' beam
Answered by frozen - Mon Feb 19 19:42:20 2007
Q. Presently I have a 8"X30' steel I-beam running across the length of house, it is being supported by two steel pillars. One is approx. 10' from my outside wall the second is 10' from the first. At the second pillar the 30' beam is intersected by a second 8"x 20' steel I-beam running at 90 degrees to the opposite wall. These beams are supporting the prefab floor joists or silent floor system and 2 storeys of my home. My question is can I remove the second pillar to gain some open space and move it back or just leave it out entirely? I am located in Ontario Canada.
Asked by mugs - Mon Feb 19 19:27:05 2007 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Not a chance!! The beam size is dictated by the load and the distance between the supports. If you remove either support the beam will be overloaded. The second support also carries the second beam. The steel supports are all that hold the floors up and there may be a load bearing wall from the roof and second floor resting on the 30' beam
Answered by frozen - Mon Feb 19 19:42:20 2007
how would i go about joining a steel beam (RSJ) in my garage?
Q. hi , i have a flat where the garage is under the building ,, its the same size as the flat above, very big.. but in the middle there is a steel beam which run across the hole building .. its seems to be holding up the floor joists,, the beam has been cut in the middle, and has a brick piller under the to beams.. which is right in the middle of the hole floor space... its would be great to remove this piller... how do you go about joining the to beams ,, so to remove the bricks... give me all the space... the beams span across into the houses next door.. doing the same job... iv tryed to add pic's..
Asked by scott a - Thu Jan 31 17:49:22 2008 - - 16 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Steve K's answer is the right one. These joists are well oversize for the job and would easily fishplate together. I would, however make the overlap about 3', so that's 2 x 6' plates. Get a steelman to do it as drilling 20mm holes is too big for DIY and he'll have a magnetic drill stand. I erect agricultural barns for a living and see few problems here. People aren't very brave except when giving advice... PS Nicely put question and well illustrated. You get a star.
Answered by crazeygrazey - Sat Feb 2 11:14:05 2008
Q. hi , i have a flat where the garage is under the building ,, its the same size as the flat above, very big.. but in the middle there is a steel beam which run across the hole building .. its seems to be holding up the floor joists,, the beam has been cut in the middle, and has a brick piller under the to beams.. which is right in the middle of the hole floor space... its would be great to remove this piller... how do you go about joining the to beams ,, so to remove the bricks... give me all the space... the beams span across into the houses next door.. doing the same job... iv tryed to add pic's..
Asked by scott a - Thu Jan 31 17:49:22 2008 - - 16 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Steve K's answer is the right one. These joists are well oversize for the job and would easily fishplate together. I would, however make the overlap about 3', so that's 2 x 6' plates. Get a steelman to do it as drilling 20mm holes is too big for DIY and he'll have a magnetic drill stand. I erect agricultural barns for a living and see few problems here. People aren't very brave except when giving advice... PS Nicely put question and well illustrated. You get a star.
Answered by crazeygrazey - Sat Feb 2 11:14:05 2008
What would be best for permanent floor supports?
Q. Home built in 1850, floor sag, part basement, part crawlspace (18" high), in the crawlspace area I plan on removing floor over area, sister some joists which are hunk of trees cut to a sort of square. (some are cracked due to previous owner force drilling for electric runs...idiot), I then want to run some lumber under joists hoizontal, lift slowly (over time) with hydraulic jacks to level. What should I use as a permanent support on this dirt floor crawlspace? The joist are currently supported with stones sitting on this dirt floor. I do have access to steel i-beams but wonder if they will slightly sink in dirt bring me back to my original problem?
Asked by zurc137 - Wed Dec 19 22:45:03 2007 - - 4 Answers - 0 Comments
A. I have done a similar thing in my mother's house, which was build 1850's, dirt floor, half trees as joists; with stones intermittently as support. I presume there is not a considerable water problem in that area, nor freezing temperatures which may cause movement (ice heaving.) Either steel or wood girder; but wood is easier to work with so I'd go with that. But if I understand what you want to do correctly, jacking up a floor that has uneven bottom's of the joists is not a simple project to make it even. If you do it the way you're thinking, you're going to have blocks and shims all over the place, some of which are hanging there and may fall out while you're jacking due to uneven flexing of the joists and/or whatever... alright to… [cont.]
Answered by Charles S - Thu Dec 20 02:58:48 2007
Q. Home built in 1850, floor sag, part basement, part crawlspace (18" high), in the crawlspace area I plan on removing floor over area, sister some joists which are hunk of trees cut to a sort of square. (some are cracked due to previous owner force drilling for electric runs...idiot), I then want to run some lumber under joists hoizontal, lift slowly (over time) with hydraulic jacks to level. What should I use as a permanent support on this dirt floor crawlspace? The joist are currently supported with stones sitting on this dirt floor. I do have access to steel i-beams but wonder if they will slightly sink in dirt bring me back to my original problem?
Asked by zurc137 - Wed Dec 19 22:45:03 2007 - - 4 Answers - 0 Comments
A. I have done a similar thing in my mother's house, which was build 1850's, dirt floor, half trees as joists; with stones intermittently as support. I presume there is not a considerable water problem in that area, nor freezing temperatures which may cause movement (ice heaving.) Either steel or wood girder; but wood is easier to work with so I'd go with that. But if I understand what you want to do correctly, jacking up a floor that has uneven bottom's of the joists is not a simple project to make it even. If you do it the way you're thinking, you're going to have blocks and shims all over the place, some of which are hanging there and may fall out while you're jacking due to uneven flexing of the joists and/or whatever... alright to… [cont.]
Answered by Charles S - Thu Dec 20 02:58:48 2007
I have a horrendous fear of floors collapsing?
Q. For a few years now (as long as I can remember but not when I was little) I have had a huge fear of floors collapsing. I am constantly examining cracks in plaster in walls and ceiling through fear it will collapse. I am constantly paranoid where I know there isn't brick underneath supporting the floor but a steel joist - this makes it even worse. At the minute I have just moved into a new house but can't bring myself to have a bath as I am so paranoid the floor underneath won't be able to take the weight of the bath water and myself. I even find myself rearranging furniture to stop strain on the floor in certain areas. Please help my life is becoming hell where this is concerned. Thanks X
Asked by gem_mad_unn - Thu Apr 16 05:56:20 2009 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
Q. For a few years now (as long as I can remember but not when I was little) I have had a huge fear of floors collapsing. I am constantly examining cracks in plaster in walls and ceiling through fear it will collapse. I am constantly paranoid where I know there isn't brick underneath supporting the floor but a steel joist - this makes it even worse. At the minute I have just moved into a new house but can't bring myself to have a bath as I am so paranoid the floor underneath won't be able to take the weight of the bath water and myself. I even find myself rearranging furniture to stop strain on the floor in certain areas. Please help my life is becoming hell where this is concerned. Thanks X
Asked by gem_mad_unn - Thu Apr 16 05:56:20 2009 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
Question on 6 story brick building repair?
Q. We had two structural engineers come up with solutions. I'd like to check on these. One wall of a 6 story brick building has moved outwards by a few inches, and the floor joists are on the edge of falling out of their pockets on floors 5 and 6. Floor has moved down about 1 inch in both cases. Now have temporary shoring in place for all floors as we work towards a solution. This is a building in a line of buildings built in 1890, all tied together, but all constructed individually and differently. This wall is part of an 20 foot "L" extending out, in the rear, and has no side support for the problem area. First solution has ledger boards or angle steel added to 4,5,6 floors, and star anchors from the outside of the bricks tied to the… [cont.]
Asked by billrussell42 - Tue Aug 26 20:48:28 2008 - - 1 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Friend I understand your desire for the best overall fix at the best price. This is not the place for that kind of advice. First off your general description of the problem does not convey the full scope of the problem. You are treating the results of the problem and not the real problem. And that should be of great concern to all parties. There is a reason the structure has become this way and most likely it started at the foundation. But even as that may be the case. You have not told us the floor type, the floor construction. Weather concrete or wood. Nor how it is all works. Faithfulness to engineering concerns demands one must decline even offering advice as it is unprofessional to do so.
Answered by the light exposes the darkenss - Tue Aug 26 23:11:53 2008
Q. We had two structural engineers come up with solutions. I'd like to check on these. One wall of a 6 story brick building has moved outwards by a few inches, and the floor joists are on the edge of falling out of their pockets on floors 5 and 6. Floor has moved down about 1 inch in both cases. Now have temporary shoring in place for all floors as we work towards a solution. This is a building in a line of buildings built in 1890, all tied together, but all constructed individually and differently. This wall is part of an 20 foot "L" extending out, in the rear, and has no side support for the problem area. First solution has ledger boards or angle steel added to 4,5,6 floors, and star anchors from the outside of the bricks tied to the… [cont.]
Asked by billrussell42 - Tue Aug 26 20:48:28 2008 - - 1 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Friend I understand your desire for the best overall fix at the best price. This is not the place for that kind of advice. First off your general description of the problem does not convey the full scope of the problem. You are treating the results of the problem and not the real problem. And that should be of great concern to all parties. There is a reason the structure has become this way and most likely it started at the foundation. But even as that may be the case. You have not told us the floor type, the floor construction. Weather concrete or wood. Nor how it is all works. Faithfulness to engineering concerns demands one must decline even offering advice as it is unprofessional to do so.
Answered by the light exposes the darkenss - Tue Aug 26 23:11:53 2008
Beam Size? Steel?
Q. Can anyone help me out? I am wanting to take out a load bearing wall in a small bunglow (30x24) in advance of adding a second storey next summer. I want to support the existing ceiling joists running from front to back (12' each side overlapping in the middle) for a clear span of 15'. I was going to support the beam ends with three or four 2x6's running down thru the floor directly onto the main beam supporting the first floor (really beefy old school stuff). I need to find out what size the beam should be to support new second storey bedrooms and new roof (and whatever snow sits on it!) and clear that 15' span. I'm thinking it will be best to use steel to maximize head room passing under it in what will be a living room area? Any… [cont.]
Asked by bfi_ottawa - Wed Nov 29 12:53:42 2006 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. I would recommend contacting an engineer to do this. It would be worth the 300 bucks to know that you are doing it right.
Answered by daedgewood - Wed Nov 29 19:02:41 2006
Q. Can anyone help me out? I am wanting to take out a load bearing wall in a small bunglow (30x24) in advance of adding a second storey next summer. I want to support the existing ceiling joists running from front to back (12' each side overlapping in the middle) for a clear span of 15'. I was going to support the beam ends with three or four 2x6's running down thru the floor directly onto the main beam supporting the first floor (really beefy old school stuff). I need to find out what size the beam should be to support new second storey bedrooms and new roof (and whatever snow sits on it!) and clear that 15' span. I'm thinking it will be best to use steel to maximize head room passing under it in what will be a living room area? Any… [cont.]
Asked by bfi_ottawa - Wed Nov 29 12:53:42 2006 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. I would recommend contacting an engineer to do this. It would be worth the 300 bucks to know that you are doing it right.
Answered by daedgewood - Wed Nov 29 19:02:41 2006
About 9/11. Can someone explain this to me?
Q. Objects falling though gravity take the path of least resistance. So, looking at the WTC towers... Let's assume that the fires weakened the steel. And let's assume that the floor joists gave way, allowing the top portion of the building... 20-30 or so stories to fall 1-3 stories onto the lower part of the building (the 70-80 stories that were still standing). Now obviously, according to the official story, this weight was enough to cause a "pancake collapse", floor by floor, all the way to the bottom. Each tower was supported by a structural core extending from its bedrock foundation to its roof. The cores were rectangular pillars with numerous large columns and girders, measuring 87 feet by 133 feet. The core columns were the largest… [cont.]
Asked by Bill S - Tue Jun 24 21:05:39 2008 - - 13 Answers - 0 Comments
A. none of us want to believe it either, but there it is. if you're following what is truly happening in politics, you can't ignore it. i understand how you feel. the fact that silverstein admitted on national television that he gave permission to demolish WTC7 is enough evidence for me. to demolish a huge building neatly like that needs enormous preparation & therefore he must have known about it before 9/11: the WTC was also no longer viable. its construction had already begun before the use of asbestos was banned in 1971, so spray-on asbestos fire retardant was used up to the 64th floor & a different insulating material was used for the remaining floors. permission to have the towers demolished had been refused & the cost of the… [cont.]
Answered by RHM - Wed Jun 25 00:36:49 2008
Q. Objects falling though gravity take the path of least resistance. So, looking at the WTC towers... Let's assume that the fires weakened the steel. And let's assume that the floor joists gave way, allowing the top portion of the building... 20-30 or so stories to fall 1-3 stories onto the lower part of the building (the 70-80 stories that were still standing). Now obviously, according to the official story, this weight was enough to cause a "pancake collapse", floor by floor, all the way to the bottom. Each tower was supported by a structural core extending from its bedrock foundation to its roof. The cores were rectangular pillars with numerous large columns and girders, measuring 87 feet by 133 feet. The core columns were the largest… [cont.]
Asked by Bill S - Tue Jun 24 21:05:39 2008 - - 13 Answers - 0 Comments
A. none of us want to believe it either, but there it is. if you're following what is truly happening in politics, you can't ignore it. i understand how you feel. the fact that silverstein admitted on national television that he gave permission to demolish WTC7 is enough evidence for me. to demolish a huge building neatly like that needs enormous preparation & therefore he must have known about it before 9/11: the WTC was also no longer viable. its construction had already begun before the use of asbestos was banned in 1971, so spray-on asbestos fire retardant was used up to the 64th floor & a different insulating material was used for the remaining floors. permission to have the towers demolished had been refused & the cost of the… [cont.]
Answered by RHM - Wed Jun 25 00:36:49 2008
Why are building frames continuous, but not the frame reinforcing?
Q. When I worked in Construction, we ran continuous horizontal reinforcing bars continuously in continuous foundations and footings, tie-ing the re-bar together at each change of direction and overlap, but as the building or structure went above ground or to non-concrete materials, all of the frame reinforcing changed to non-continuous, isolated location reinforcing materials and products. Rigid and isolated location anchor bolts, post bases and seismic straps, and vertical tension rods replaced the continuously tied re-bar, and the following: When I placed and attached a plywood shear-wall, for example, on the exterior or interior side of a wall/floor/roof, the plywood did not wrap around the corners of the building/structure frame. I even… [cont.]
Asked by the "eggster" - Sat Nov 22 16:42:43 2008 - - 1 Answers - 0 Comments
Q. When I worked in Construction, we ran continuous horizontal reinforcing bars continuously in continuous foundations and footings, tie-ing the re-bar together at each change of direction and overlap, but as the building or structure went above ground or to non-concrete materials, all of the frame reinforcing changed to non-continuous, isolated location reinforcing materials and products. Rigid and isolated location anchor bolts, post bases and seismic straps, and vertical tension rods replaced the continuously tied re-bar, and the following: When I placed and attached a plywood shear-wall, for example, on the exterior or interior side of a wall/floor/roof, the plywood did not wrap around the corners of the building/structure frame. I even… [cont.]
Asked by the "eggster" - Sat Nov 22 16:42:43 2008 - - 1 Answers - 0 Comments
Central heating pipes keep knocking on the floorboards?
Q. The semi detached house in question is a relatively new build, around 20 years old. The partitioned walls are plasterboard as to the better idea of conventional bricks. Anyway recently I have been noticing the sound of the hot water / central heating pipes making a lot of banging noises against the floorboards & joists when the boiler is working the central heating system. I don't quite understand what actually causes the pipes to make that noise as they are secured into the joists with pipe clips & the majority of them are clear of the floorboards when there laid down. As you probably know it actually sounds like a 'cracking noise' Is it the pulsation of water flowing around the pipes from the main pump that causes the banging ? Its… [cont.]
Asked by Dave - Sun Jan 10 06:31:14 2010 - - 6 Answers - 0 Comments
A. This sounds to me like air in the system. Have you tried bleeding the rads?
Answered by Just William - Sun Jan 10 06:48:57 2010
Q. The semi detached house in question is a relatively new build, around 20 years old. The partitioned walls are plasterboard as to the better idea of conventional bricks. Anyway recently I have been noticing the sound of the hot water / central heating pipes making a lot of banging noises against the floorboards & joists when the boiler is working the central heating system. I don't quite understand what actually causes the pipes to make that noise as they are secured into the joists with pipe clips & the majority of them are clear of the floorboards when there laid down. As you probably know it actually sounds like a 'cracking noise' Is it the pulsation of water flowing around the pipes from the main pump that causes the banging ? Its… [cont.]
Asked by Dave - Sun Jan 10 06:31:14 2010 - - 6 Answers - 0 Comments
A. This sounds to me like air in the system. Have you tried bleeding the rads?
Answered by Just William - Sun Jan 10 06:48:57 2010
How much would the following repairs cost for an outward bulging gable end wall?
Q. From the surveyors report: "To all rooms along the gable wall, introduce 50 x 5mm galvanized mild steel straps fixed to the gable wall at first floor and roof levels, at centres not exceeding 900mm and screwed down into at least three joists. Timber noggins should be provided between the wall and the first joist and between the strapped joists. The joists should be notched to receive each strap and the boards screwed down into the joists when re-laid". This is the remedial work required to correct an outward bulge on the end terraced properties gable end wall. The houses staircase runs along the gable wall so it does not have a strong tie. It is thought that the bulging has been effected by foundation movement from external factors, such… [cont.]
Asked by maddatta - Sat Dec 29 14:12:40 2007 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. it sounds like foundation settling. the settling may be occuring on the outboard sides of the foundation and not directly under the wall. get 3 bids and references. do not always look at the low bid as the best, i am a contractor and can attest to some of contracts getting under bid and then getting change-ordered to death. also look to see that this contractor is licensed if your state or area requires it.
Answered by jonezin_nj - Sat Dec 29 23:24:03 2007
Q. From the surveyors report: "To all rooms along the gable wall, introduce 50 x 5mm galvanized mild steel straps fixed to the gable wall at first floor and roof levels, at centres not exceeding 900mm and screwed down into at least three joists. Timber noggins should be provided between the wall and the first joist and between the strapped joists. The joists should be notched to receive each strap and the boards screwed down into the joists when re-laid". This is the remedial work required to correct an outward bulge on the end terraced properties gable end wall. The houses staircase runs along the gable wall so it does not have a strong tie. It is thought that the bulging has been effected by foundation movement from external factors, such… [cont.]
Asked by maddatta - Sat Dec 29 14:12:40 2007 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. it sounds like foundation settling. the settling may be occuring on the outboard sides of the foundation and not directly under the wall. get 3 bids and references. do not always look at the low bid as the best, i am a contractor and can attest to some of contracts getting under bid and then getting change-ordered to death. also look to see that this contractor is licensed if your state or area requires it.
Answered by jonezin_nj - Sat Dec 29 23:24:03 2007
Steel Joists to replace wooden joists in older construction?
Q. The ceilings on the first floor of my house are about 7' 4". Is it possible to replace the wood joists that support the second floor with low-profile steel joists? I have seen some box-frame steel joists that are 100mm deep (4 inches). I think that this could increase the ceiling height by as much as 6". Am I crazy?
Asked by Judith L - Mon Mar 26 17:39:58 2007 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Where do you plan on putting all that plumbing?
Answered by Don - Mon Mar 26 18:28:08 2007
Q. The ceilings on the first floor of my house are about 7' 4". Is it possible to replace the wood joists that support the second floor with low-profile steel joists? I have seen some box-frame steel joists that are 100mm deep (4 inches). I think that this could increase the ceiling height by as much as 6". Am I crazy?
Asked by Judith L - Mon Mar 26 17:39:58 2007 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Where do you plan on putting all that plumbing?
Answered by Don - Mon Mar 26 18:28:08 2007
Question on 6 story brick building repair?
Q. We had two structural engineers come up with solutions. I'd like to check on these. One wall of a 6 story brick building has moved outwards by a few inches, and the floor joists are on the edge of falling out of their pockets on floors 5 and 6. Floor has moved down about 1 inch in both cases. Now have temporary shoring in place for all floors as we work towards a solution. This is a building in a line of buildings built in 1890, all tied together, but all constructed individually and differently. This wall is part of an 20 foot "L" extending out, in the rear, and has no side support for the problem area. First solution has ledger boards or angle steel added to 4,5,6 floors, and star anchors from the outside of the bricks tied to the… [cont.]
Asked by billrussell42 - Tue Aug 26 20:49:28 2008 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. My Comment: The structural enginners must not removed anything from the building if they want to change its appearance. By just painting that building, it'll look like as new and has now new appearance.
Answered by AmmoniumChloride106 - Tue Aug 26 21:12:41 2008
Q. We had two structural engineers come up with solutions. I'd like to check on these. One wall of a 6 story brick building has moved outwards by a few inches, and the floor joists are on the edge of falling out of their pockets on floors 5 and 6. Floor has moved down about 1 inch in both cases. Now have temporary shoring in place for all floors as we work towards a solution. This is a building in a line of buildings built in 1890, all tied together, but all constructed individually and differently. This wall is part of an 20 foot "L" extending out, in the rear, and has no side support for the problem area. First solution has ledger boards or angle steel added to 4,5,6 floors, and star anchors from the outside of the bricks tied to the… [cont.]
Asked by billrussell42 - Tue Aug 26 20:49:28 2008 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. My Comment: The structural enginners must not removed anything from the building if they want to change its appearance. By just painting that building, it'll look like as new and has now new appearance.
Answered by AmmoniumChloride106 - Tue Aug 26 21:12:41 2008
From Yahoo Answer Search: 'steel floor joist'
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