How do I connect floor joists to a wall that has no header joist?
Q. I am putting in a raised floor in my old garage, for a remodel. One side has a header joist, but the other side has a sill, but no header joist. How would you recommend that I attach the Joists to the wall with no header joist? Thanks The wall is already existing, do I need to tear it out to install the new header joist?
Asked by PB4SC - Tue Feb 28 10:25:50 2006 - - 4 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Install a Ledger board of a 2X8 with nails and 4 in. lag bolts into every other wall stud. on this ledger board get some 2x8 joist haingers and put them at 16 in on center to hold the new 2x8 floor joists. if your between 2 walls each wall will need this ledger board installed .The ledger board and joist weight is there by transfered on to the walls.
Answered by Wolfshadow - Tue Feb 28 21:10:09 2006
Q. I am putting in a raised floor in my old garage, for a remodel. One side has a header joist, but the other side has a sill, but no header joist. How would you recommend that I attach the Joists to the wall with no header joist? Thanks The wall is already existing, do I need to tear it out to install the new header joist?
Asked by PB4SC - Tue Feb 28 10:25:50 2006 - - 4 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Install a Ledger board of a 2X8 with nails and 4 in. lag bolts into every other wall stud. on this ledger board get some 2x8 joist haingers and put them at 16 in on center to hold the new 2x8 floor joists. if your between 2 walls each wall will need this ledger board installed .The ledger board and joist weight is there by transfered on to the walls.
Answered by Wolfshadow - Tue Feb 28 21:10:09 2006
Hanging a hammock chair from a ceiling joist?
Q. I have myself a sturdy hook, half an inch in diameter and an inch and a half of threading. I've found the joist in the ceiling. Is one joist enough to support a chair and body weight? Or should I run a board along the ceiling and draw support from two joists? (Can't access from attic, so it would be screwing a board into both joists, then the chair hook into the board. I'd really rather not...but if I have to I will :) Thanks!
Asked by MacGyver - Tue Jan 22 03:59:12 2008 - - 4 Answers - 0 Comments
A. The joist will be fine, its the screw eye that you have to be worried about but it sounds like you have a good one. just make sure you don't over or under drill the pilot. you dont want to split the joist. and as with all hanging furniture, don't get too wild on it.
Answered by hound - Tue Jan 22 04:09:57 2008
Q. I have myself a sturdy hook, half an inch in diameter and an inch and a half of threading. I've found the joist in the ceiling. Is one joist enough to support a chair and body weight? Or should I run a board along the ceiling and draw support from two joists? (Can't access from attic, so it would be screwing a board into both joists, then the chair hook into the board. I'd really rather not...but if I have to I will :) Thanks!
Asked by MacGyver - Tue Jan 22 03:59:12 2008 - - 4 Answers - 0 Comments
A. The joist will be fine, its the screw eye that you have to be worried about but it sounds like you have a good one. just make sure you don't over or under drill the pilot. you dont want to split the joist. and as with all hanging furniture, don't get too wild on it.
Answered by hound - Tue Jan 22 04:09:57 2008
I have a sagging floor joist due to cut-out for plumbing. What are some ideas to correct this issue?
Q. This joist is on the first floor with access through basement. I am looking for methods to correct the sag in the joist other than permanent floor jacks. Sistering another joist would not work because of the plumbing in place and if at all possible, prefer not to move this plumbing. This is an older home, 30-40 ears old. At this point, the sag doesn't appear to be getting worse but want to reinforce.
Asked by David - Sun Dec 6 12:13:27 2009 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. You can put new joists next to your old ones, bolt or nail together. You can put permanent jacks in. You can run a beam, 4x4 4x6 or more at 90 degrees.
Answered by crackleboy - Sun Dec 6 18:42:41 2009
Q. This joist is on the first floor with access through basement. I am looking for methods to correct the sag in the joist other than permanent floor jacks. Sistering another joist would not work because of the plumbing in place and if at all possible, prefer not to move this plumbing. This is an older home, 30-40 ears old. At this point, the sag doesn't appear to be getting worse but want to reinforce.
Asked by David - Sun Dec 6 12:13:27 2009 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. You can put new joists next to your old ones, bolt or nail together. You can put permanent jacks in. You can run a beam, 4x4 4x6 or more at 90 degrees.
Answered by crackleboy - Sun Dec 6 18:42:41 2009
How do I install new work recessed lights on to-be-drywalled joist where 1 x 3s are used for nailing?
Q. Should they be installed flush against the bottom of the joist or the 1 x 3s?
Asked by msolve1 - Sat Apr 26 00:19:50 2008 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. The recessed cans should be set at the back edge of the sheet rock. I prefer to set them in the middle of the drywall body. I pre measure/cut my holes before hanging the board. The middle of the drywall body keeps the can from deforming but allows me to mud without hitting the edge of the can thus causing chatter marks in the topcoat.So you should set them flush with the bottom of the sheetrock nailer
Answered by keith t - Sat Apr 26 02:22:47 2008
Q. Should they be installed flush against the bottom of the joist or the 1 x 3s?
Asked by msolve1 - Sat Apr 26 00:19:50 2008 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. The recessed cans should be set at the back edge of the sheet rock. I prefer to set them in the middle of the drywall body. I pre measure/cut my holes before hanging the board. The middle of the drywall body keeps the can from deforming but allows me to mud without hitting the edge of the can thus causing chatter marks in the topcoat.So you should set them flush with the bottom of the sheetrock nailer
Answered by keith t - Sat Apr 26 02:22:47 2008
How to level a floor for tiling when one floor joist sits higher than the others.?
Q. I am trying to lay tile in a front entrance and adjacent bathroom. About 3 feet in from the front door is a joist that sits about inch above the rest. As a result, there is a steep slope in the sub-floor between this joist and the joists on either side of it. The joists run parallel to the front of the house and the wall the divides the bathroom from the rest of the entranceway. However, because this joist lays about 1 inch away from the bathroom wall for about half its length it will be difficult to access the sub-floor in this section. Plus I need to tile on both sides of this dividing wall. At the moment I thinking it would be best to rip up the floor around the joist and plane the joists top until its level with the surrounding… [cont.]
Asked by jc l - Mon Apr 16 13:49:33 2007 - - 9 Answers - 0 Comments
A. JC, I'm assuming any added height is an issue... One possible cause just occured to me, This bath wall may actually be pulling the floor and joist up... maybe you can use the wall [shimming between the bottom plate and the subfloor] to separate the wall from the floor and drive the joist down... can you get to it from below? If so, you might cut up from the bottom of joist in one or two spots to let it settle down and then sister a straight joist in next to it. there are several variations of this methods i can think of. one is cutting plywood along either side of joist, remove plywood from top of joist. level remaining plywood and bolt "ledgers" to sides of joist to bear edge of remaining plywood. if working from below isn't possible, [cont.]
Answered by buzzards27 - Mon Apr 16 14:01:56 2007
Q. I am trying to lay tile in a front entrance and adjacent bathroom. About 3 feet in from the front door is a joist that sits about inch above the rest. As a result, there is a steep slope in the sub-floor between this joist and the joists on either side of it. The joists run parallel to the front of the house and the wall the divides the bathroom from the rest of the entranceway. However, because this joist lays about 1 inch away from the bathroom wall for about half its length it will be difficult to access the sub-floor in this section. Plus I need to tile on both sides of this dividing wall. At the moment I thinking it would be best to rip up the floor around the joist and plane the joists top until its level with the surrounding… [cont.]
Asked by jc l - Mon Apr 16 13:49:33 2007 - - 9 Answers - 0 Comments
A. JC, I'm assuming any added height is an issue... One possible cause just occured to me, This bath wall may actually be pulling the floor and joist up... maybe you can use the wall [shimming between the bottom plate and the subfloor] to separate the wall from the floor and drive the joist down... can you get to it from below? If so, you might cut up from the bottom of joist in one or two spots to let it settle down and then sister a straight joist in next to it. there are several variations of this methods i can think of. one is cutting plywood along either side of joist, remove plywood from top of joist. level remaining plywood and bolt "ledgers" to sides of joist to bear edge of remaining plywood. if working from below isn't possible, [cont.]
Answered by buzzards27 - Mon Apr 16 14:01:56 2007
How valuable is reclaimed douglas fir 2x10 joist beams worth?
Q. I am doing a reconstruction project for a 1929 building. The second story will be fully removed to expose the ceiling. The process involves removing the old floor joist beams. These beams are douglas fir and are 2x10 and vary in length to about 18 feet long. How much could money could I get for these beams? Would there any interest? They are in good condition.
Asked by rtei - Sun Aug 30 20:37:45 2009 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. I would doubt they would be worth much.Douglas Fir is a fairly common wood.But check with your local demolition yard.
Answered by The Wizard. - Sun Aug 30 21:56:38 2009
Q. I am doing a reconstruction project for a 1929 building. The second story will be fully removed to expose the ceiling. The process involves removing the old floor joist beams. These beams are douglas fir and are 2x10 and vary in length to about 18 feet long. How much could money could I get for these beams? Would there any interest? They are in good condition.
Asked by rtei - Sun Aug 30 20:37:45 2009 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. I would doubt they would be worth much.Douglas Fir is a fairly common wood.But check with your local demolition yard.
Answered by The Wizard. - Sun Aug 30 21:56:38 2009
Why is my insulation "frozen" to the Rim Joist in my house?
Q. The insulation on the rim joist of my house on the First Story Floor (above the basement) has fiberglas insulation on it. The insulation is "frozen" to the inside of the joist. I assume there was condensation and it has frozen and now the insulation is stuck. Why do I have condensation? Should the insulation have kraft paper on the interior side? Right now it does not. Any help, thanks. What do you mean "air leak"?
Asked by CK - Fri Jan 8 14:14:45 2010 - - 3 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Insulation is supposed to have vapor barrier over top, to avoid this problem! Best Method--staple 20 in. strip to underside of joists, then slice in middle of each joist, and tuck each peice up and over insulation. Vapor Barrier is always required on warm side of insulation,when there is a warm/cold situation!
Answered by __A_YAHOO_USER__ - Fri Jan 8 15:05:22 2010
Q. The insulation on the rim joist of my house on the First Story Floor (above the basement) has fiberglas insulation on it. The insulation is "frozen" to the inside of the joist. I assume there was condensation and it has frozen and now the insulation is stuck. Why do I have condensation? Should the insulation have kraft paper on the interior side? Right now it does not. Any help, thanks. What do you mean "air leak"?
Asked by CK - Fri Jan 8 14:14:45 2010 - - 3 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Insulation is supposed to have vapor barrier over top, to avoid this problem! Best Method--staple 20 in. strip to underside of joists, then slice in middle of each joist, and tuck each peice up and over insulation. Vapor Barrier is always required on warm side of insulation,when there is a warm/cold situation!
Answered by __A_YAHOO_USER__ - Fri Jan 8 15:05:22 2010
How do I attach the band joist to the sill?
Q. I'm framing a small structure with a 2x12 sill plate fastened to a concrete foundation w/ anchor bolts. Tha band joist (sits on top of the sill at the outside edge; that all the joists butt into) fastens to the sill with what? I'm guessing it's toenailed but it seems silly to bolt the sill down so securely and then just toenail the whole rest of the structure to it. Thanks...
Asked by Bob B - Wed Oct 1 12:32:11 2008 - - 4 Answers - 0 Comments
A. It's silly, but that's how it's done. The joists are held back 1-1/2: to allow for the band. The joists are toenailed, and the band is nailed to the ends of the joists and toenailed to the sill. The cross nailing is actually damn strong. Don't forget sill sealer on the bottom of the sill plate. Hope this helps. EDIT: That's a pretty hefty sill plate. We always use 2x6.
Answered by woodtick314 - Wed Oct 1 12:37:26 2008
Q. I'm framing a small structure with a 2x12 sill plate fastened to a concrete foundation w/ anchor bolts. Tha band joist (sits on top of the sill at the outside edge; that all the joists butt into) fastens to the sill with what? I'm guessing it's toenailed but it seems silly to bolt the sill down so securely and then just toenail the whole rest of the structure to it. Thanks...
Asked by Bob B - Wed Oct 1 12:32:11 2008 - - 4 Answers - 0 Comments
A. It's silly, but that's how it's done. The joists are held back 1-1/2: to allow for the band. The joists are toenailed, and the band is nailed to the ends of the joists and toenailed to the sill. The cross nailing is actually damn strong. Don't forget sill sealer on the bottom of the sill plate. Hope this helps. EDIT: That's a pretty hefty sill plate. We always use 2x6.
Answered by woodtick314 - Wed Oct 1 12:37:26 2008
how much can you notch into a timber joist from below?
Q. joist is 145x45mm. is there a specific guideline/rule of thumb - perhaps from the timber code?
Asked by anders1156 - Wed Sep 20 09:17:52 2006 - - 6 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Any holes or notches reduce the cross-sectional area. The cross-sectional area is what engineers use to size the beam to determine it's strength based on the required loading. In your case the x-area is 145 x 45 = 6525 sq mm. Typically, in all structural design, there is a built in margin of safety. This is to account for damages, minor rot or decay over the years, additional unforeseen loading, etc. In my opinion you should be able to lose 10 to 15% cross section and still be quite safe. That would be about 975 sq mm. That would give you a hole size of about 18mm. Therefore, I recommend not bigger than 18mm. If you need to go bigger, consider reinforcing the beam.
Answered by Munster - Thu Sep 21 04:04:11 2006
Q. joist is 145x45mm. is there a specific guideline/rule of thumb - perhaps from the timber code?
Asked by anders1156 - Wed Sep 20 09:17:52 2006 - - 6 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Any holes or notches reduce the cross-sectional area. The cross-sectional area is what engineers use to size the beam to determine it's strength based on the required loading. In your case the x-area is 145 x 45 = 6525 sq mm. Typically, in all structural design, there is a built in margin of safety. This is to account for damages, minor rot or decay over the years, additional unforeseen loading, etc. In my opinion you should be able to lose 10 to 15% cross section and still be quite safe. That would be about 975 sq mm. That would give you a hole size of about 18mm. Therefore, I recommend not bigger than 18mm. If you need to go bigger, consider reinforcing the beam.
Answered by Munster - Thu Sep 21 04:04:11 2006
i noticed on my roof that along every roof joist the shingles are cracked. what could cause this?
Q. before i re roof my house i want to solve the issue of the shingles cracking along every roof joist. the shingles are 20 years old. the deck boards are 1/2 inch plywood and are staggard when laid. i have soffetts and roof ridge vent. why would have cracking?
Asked by k k - Wed Sep 12 15:25:12 2007 - - 1 Answers - 0 Comments
A. if all you have for a roof sheathing is 20 year old 1/2" plywood you need more than shingles...like a new roof of at least 3/4 inch...the cracking in the shingles is from the old ply failing, sagging, moving around; nails pulling through, butt joints of two sheet edges on the rafters moving, etc etc etc.
Answered by yankee_sailor - Wed Sep 12 15:39:17 2007
Q. before i re roof my house i want to solve the issue of the shingles cracking along every roof joist. the shingles are 20 years old. the deck boards are 1/2 inch plywood and are staggard when laid. i have soffetts and roof ridge vent. why would have cracking?
Asked by k k - Wed Sep 12 15:25:12 2007 - - 1 Answers - 0 Comments
A. if all you have for a roof sheathing is 20 year old 1/2" plywood you need more than shingles...like a new roof of at least 3/4 inch...the cracking in the shingles is from the old ply failing, sagging, moving around; nails pulling through, butt joints of two sheet edges on the rafters moving, etc etc etc.
Answered by yankee_sailor - Wed Sep 12 15:39:17 2007
I want to replace 2x8 wooden floor joist with steel i beams. what is the size i need and what is the cost ?
Q. how much does the i beam cost and what size would i use to replace 2 x 8 wooden floor joist. I have sixteen joist and i also want ot know how many beams i would need and if thist is even a good to do ?
Asked by marylandterpnnebraska - Thu Dec 28 03:21:56 2006 - - 4 Answers - 0 Comments
A. No it is not a good idea. Steel I beams are used to support the floor joist and the beams have to be run into the basement walls for support and held up with metal poles. You would be changing the floor stress point and flexiblity by making them all steel - even if you blew out your wall supports to insert the beams. I have seen aluminum i beams - same as wall frames ones. I do not think they are a good investment however.
Answered by Carl P - Thu Dec 28 03:35:44 2006
Q. how much does the i beam cost and what size would i use to replace 2 x 8 wooden floor joist. I have sixteen joist and i also want ot know how many beams i would need and if thist is even a good to do ?
Asked by marylandterpnnebraska - Thu Dec 28 03:21:56 2006 - - 4 Answers - 0 Comments
A. No it is not a good idea. Steel I beams are used to support the floor joist and the beams have to be run into the basement walls for support and held up with metal poles. You would be changing the floor stress point and flexiblity by making them all steel - even if you blew out your wall supports to insert the beams. I have seen aluminum i beams - same as wall frames ones. I do not think they are a good investment however.
Answered by Carl P - Thu Dec 28 03:35:44 2006
what is the best method to fix joist ends that have been affected by penatrating damp?
Q. the floor joists are visible from the basement and the ends of the joists sit on the exterior wall are suffering from rot, after the damp problem has been sorted is the most efficient way to sort out the joists to support the ends cut them back and bolt on a new piece and have that sit in plastic or replace completely, treat etc. any thoughts appreciated Thanks i will start with the damp and then get onto the joists then i just have to plaster everywhere all fun and games thanks again
Asked by sam - Tue Jun 30 16:14:44 2009 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Find out where the moisture is coming from that is effecting them, and solve that problem "1st", other wise you're just spinning your wheels! It, is possible to "scab" on to the damaged ones, for a quick repair! I would also use a dehumidifier, to control the moisture issue, (if you have a basement) to set it in! good luck
Answered by happywjc - Tue Jun 30 16:25:48 2009
Q. the floor joists are visible from the basement and the ends of the joists sit on the exterior wall are suffering from rot, after the damp problem has been sorted is the most efficient way to sort out the joists to support the ends cut them back and bolt on a new piece and have that sit in plastic or replace completely, treat etc. any thoughts appreciated Thanks i will start with the damp and then get onto the joists then i just have to plaster everywhere all fun and games thanks again
Asked by sam - Tue Jun 30 16:14:44 2009 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Find out where the moisture is coming from that is effecting them, and solve that problem "1st", other wise you're just spinning your wheels! It, is possible to "scab" on to the damaged ones, for a quick repair! I would also use a dehumidifier, to control the moisture issue, (if you have a basement) to set it in! good luck
Answered by happywjc - Tue Jun 30 16:25:48 2009
How to find a joist without a joist finder or knocking on the ceiling?
Q. Can a regular magnet be used or anything else?
Asked by unknown - Thu Sep 25 09:13:50 2008 - - 5 Answers - 0 Comments
A. You may get lucky and find one of the nails with a magnet, but it's pretty slim chance. A stud finder is the best way, but tapping with the butt end of a screwdriver works as well. Good luck.
Answered by woodtick314 - Thu Sep 25 09:21:00 2008
Q. Can a regular magnet be used or anything else?
Asked by unknown - Thu Sep 25 09:13:50 2008 - - 5 Answers - 0 Comments
A. You may get lucky and find one of the nails with a magnet, but it's pretty slim chance. A stud finder is the best way, but tapping with the butt end of a screwdriver works as well. Good luck.
Answered by woodtick314 - Thu Sep 25 09:21:00 2008
Why must floor joist be blocked where they occur over supports?
Q. What does it mean to be blocked in this context? Thanks.
Asked by Desmond M - Fri Oct 5 22:50:56 2007 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Joist blocking is installed to prevent joists from rotating or tilting like a stack of dominoes. Locating blocking over supports makes good sense especially if the plans have a wall positioned directly above the supports: the wall load would be carried down to the supports both by the joists and by the solid blocking.
Answered by Tom-SJ - Fri Oct 5 22:59:19 2007
Q. What does it mean to be blocked in this context? Thanks.
Asked by Desmond M - Fri Oct 5 22:50:56 2007 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Joist blocking is installed to prevent joists from rotating or tilting like a stack of dominoes. Locating blocking over supports makes good sense especially if the plans have a wall positioned directly above the supports: the wall load would be carried down to the supports both by the joists and by the solid blocking.
Answered by Tom-SJ - Fri Oct 5 22:59:19 2007
Can you help me with picking the right joist sizes?
Q. what size and class of timber, plus the joist centres that you would select for an upper floor construction which has a maximum width of 4.70m and the dead load is not greater than 0.6kN/m2?
Asked by Deeno - Tue Jun 16 09:00:08 2009 - - 1 Answers - 0 Comments
A. 2x6 joist 16 inches on center
Answered by William B - Tue Jun 16 09:06:42 2009
Q. what size and class of timber, plus the joist centres that you would select for an upper floor construction which has a maximum width of 4.70m and the dead load is not greater than 0.6kN/m2?
Asked by Deeno - Tue Jun 16 09:00:08 2009 - - 1 Answers - 0 Comments
A. 2x6 joist 16 inches on center
Answered by William B - Tue Jun 16 09:06:42 2009
What are typical distances for floor joist in a home built around 1920? I am trying to put up studs to hang?
Q. drywall onto a kitchen ceiling, and I am finding (by screwing through the plaster) that they seem to be 18"O.C. Can this be right?
Asked by theefovalways - Thu Feb 7 13:51:57 2008 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Floor joists were most usually placed 16" ctr to ctr..You seem to be talking about a ceiling..I would suggest knocking some holes on the ends to be certain..If you're going to hanging a ton of drywall over your head..you want it to stay there..you'll be covering the holes anyway..They used good stuff in the 20's..a strong piece of lath could fool you.
Answered by Rex K - Thu Feb 7 14:15:14 2008
Q. drywall onto a kitchen ceiling, and I am finding (by screwing through the plaster) that they seem to be 18"O.C. Can this be right?
Asked by theefovalways - Thu Feb 7 13:51:57 2008 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Floor joists were most usually placed 16" ctr to ctr..You seem to be talking about a ceiling..I would suggest knocking some holes on the ends to be certain..If you're going to hanging a ton of drywall over your head..you want it to stay there..you'll be covering the holes anyway..They used good stuff in the 20's..a strong piece of lath could fool you.
Answered by Rex K - Thu Feb 7 14:15:14 2008
What are the formulae for maximum bending moment and deflection in a trimming joist with UDL & point load ?
Q. Hi! Does anyone know how to calculate the maximum bending moment and deflection in a simply supported beam with a UDL acting across its entire length and a point load acting at some distance other than the centre of the span? It's for the design of a timber trimming beam in a loft conversion. Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks.
Asked by cmagicroundabout - Sat Apr 12 08:01:52 2008 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Now the problem lies in the fact that the point load is at any point. There really is no easy formula, you can use superposition but it will be difficult to get the max moment via that method. The reason for this is that the max moment from the udl is at the mid span and the max moment from the point load is at the point load. Don't recommend this method. I recommend to draw out the FBD and calculate the shear and moment diagrams, and read the max moment off of that. If your not sure how to do this use the worst case scenario udl w/ the point load mid span, it will be Conservative but still safe. How conservative depend on the location of the point load. use: wL^2/8 + PL/4 = Mmax Deflection is a different problem but similar, their… [cont.]
Answered by Marcus - Sun Apr 13 03:40:24 2008
Q. Hi! Does anyone know how to calculate the maximum bending moment and deflection in a simply supported beam with a UDL acting across its entire length and a point load acting at some distance other than the centre of the span? It's for the design of a timber trimming beam in a loft conversion. Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks.
Asked by cmagicroundabout - Sat Apr 12 08:01:52 2008 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Now the problem lies in the fact that the point load is at any point. There really is no easy formula, you can use superposition but it will be difficult to get the max moment via that method. The reason for this is that the max moment from the udl is at the mid span and the max moment from the point load is at the point load. Don't recommend this method. I recommend to draw out the FBD and calculate the shear and moment diagrams, and read the max moment off of that. If your not sure how to do this use the worst case scenario udl w/ the point load mid span, it will be Conservative but still safe. How conservative depend on the location of the point load. use: wL^2/8 + PL/4 = Mmax Deflection is a different problem but similar, their… [cont.]
Answered by Marcus - Sun Apr 13 03:40:24 2008
My ceiling joist in the bedroom are sagging?
Q. Hi, What is the best way of fixing the ceiling joist in the bedroom without changing them for new. The house was built in 1886, the beams are 14 foot long and they are sagging in the middle. Any help would be gratefull.
Asked by reese_rob1978 - Tue Mar 3 14:07:09 2009 - - 3 Answers - 0 Comments
A. is the roof pushing down on the roof? you will have to look to determine this. If so that means that your roof is sagging too. adding extra support in the attic to stop any farther saggin should be fairly easy. but actually jacking the ceiling back up will be a project.
Answered by Justin - Tue Mar 3 14:45:19 2009
Q. Hi, What is the best way of fixing the ceiling joist in the bedroom without changing them for new. The house was built in 1886, the beams are 14 foot long and they are sagging in the middle. Any help would be gratefull.
Asked by reese_rob1978 - Tue Mar 3 14:07:09 2009 - - 3 Answers - 0 Comments
A. is the roof pushing down on the roof? you will have to look to determine this. If so that means that your roof is sagging too. adding extra support in the attic to stop any farther saggin should be fairly easy. but actually jacking the ceiling back up will be a project.
Answered by Justin - Tue Mar 3 14:45:19 2009
Trying to repair 2x10 cracked (length direction) floor joist and can't sister a board. Would an epoxy work?
Q. Open from underneath, but extremely congested with electrical, water lines, and hot air ducts.
Asked by Greg - Tue Nov 3 21:40:02 2009 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
Q. Open from underneath, but extremely congested with electrical, water lines, and hot air ducts.
Asked by Greg - Tue Nov 3 21:40:02 2009 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
I want to build a cabin with a loft. So I am looking at a 10 over 12 pitch. What size of joist should I use?
Q. The cabin will be 24' wide where the roof joist will go across. I need it to support 50# of snow load. I will be using metal roofing. Where the loft is it will have floor joists. The rest will be an open. The elevation is 8800' in Colorado. Thanks, John
Asked by John S - Sat May 13 18:03:00 2006 - - 1 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Check with your local building inspector...you have several options. If you are going to hand frame the roof, you may want to use the engineered I joists. If you are going to buy through a local building center, they could custom fabricate for you a 'room-in-attic' truss. The truss is the simplest, and fastest...least labor intensive method. The interior can then be finished in any manor which you choose
Answered by mstrcarp44 - Sat May 13 18:24:24 2006
Q. The cabin will be 24' wide where the roof joist will go across. I need it to support 50# of snow load. I will be using metal roofing. Where the loft is it will have floor joists. The rest will be an open. The elevation is 8800' in Colorado. Thanks, John
Asked by John S - Sat May 13 18:03:00 2006 - - 1 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Check with your local building inspector...you have several options. If you are going to hand frame the roof, you may want to use the engineered I joists. If you are going to buy through a local building center, they could custom fabricate for you a 'room-in-attic' truss. The truss is the simplest, and fastest...least labor intensive method. The interior can then be finished in any manor which you choose
Answered by mstrcarp44 - Sat May 13 18:24:24 2006
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Its slim profile and narrow blade allow it to work in the most improbable places: inside a chimney chase, under a sink, behind a floor joist . ...
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rudra
Wed, 28 Oct 2009 15:50:01 GM
I don't do a whole lot of work with steel . joists. , so keep that in mind. I've usually seen that X-bracing converted to horizontal bracing in the end bay. This is to allow the . joist. to deflect releative to the non-deflecting wall. ...
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